There Are Many Flowers In The Garden Of Jah: In Memory of Winston “Bo Pee” Bowen

I had been in Jamaica six weeks. It was a hot September day in 1980, the worst election in Jamaica’s history was at peak intensity, and a hurricane had just passed. The great singer Freddie McKay had brought me to Channel One Studio in the heart of Whitfield Town at the request of rising producer Junjo Lawes. I was naïve, excited, and terrified at the thought that I might get to play on a recording session in Kingston. I didn’t really understand patois then and had no idea what to expect. I had a feeling that I might not get a warm welcome though.

We walked into the crowded control room in the middle of a take. Roots Radics was in the studio and the sound coming through the monitors was the loudest and most powerful reggae I’d heard up close. Already nervous, I was now totally intimidated. When the take was finished, the musicians came into the control room. After the playback, everyone suddenly noticed that there was a stranger in their midst. There was silence for a minute. A room full of people regarded me with everything from open hostility to veiled curiosity. Then they started talking. I couldn’t catch what was being said, but I knew I was the topic of discussion. I had never felt more lost and out of my depth in my life.

Then suddenly one of the people leaning against the control room window smiled and stepped forward. He wore rectangular gold-rimmed glasses, a cap, and a sports shirt. Extending his hand, he announced graciously and deliberately, “Hello.” He said it like he was greeting a head of state. He paused briefly for effect. “I am Bo Pee.” A half beat of rest. “What is your name? And where are you from?”

“My name is Andy Bassford. I’m from Hartford, Connecticut.” I couldn’t believe my luck. An obsessive reader of liner notes, I knew exactly who Bo Pee was. In fact, he was one of the Jamaican guitarists I most admired and wanted to meet. And he seemed friendly!

He smiled again and we shook hands. Then his curiosity overcame his formality. In an entirely different voice he asked, “And what is that you have under your arm?” It was absolutely the last thing I expected him to say, and probably the best thing he could have said.

Not knowing what might be required on the session, I had brought my guitar and a homemade pedalboard containing guitar effects that my father had built for me. I was holding it under one arm because the power cable would trail on the floor otherwise. In 1980 pedalboards were not common even in America, and mine might have been the first one seen in Jamaica.

Relieved to have someone to talk to, and something to talk about, I opened the case, showed him how it was wired, and what the effects did. Bo was fascinated. So was Sowell Bailey, the other guitarist on the session, who also stepped forward to watch. Now we were three guitar players talking, not foreigner and locals, and the entire atmosphere in the room changed. Junjo cut the conversation short and the band went back into the studio. Later in the session, Bo got up and let me play two songs in his place. Somehow, I got through them, Junjo paid me, and that was the start of my Jamaican studio career.

After the session, Bo Pee was very insistent that I stay in touch, and we met the next day at Lloyd Parks’ record shop on Half Way Tree Road, home base for the We The People Band. We talked guitars and music for hours. Despite our obvious differences, we found we had a lot in common. We both played Gibson SG guitars, we both had learned primarily by watching other guitarists, and we both learned our basic chords from the Mickey Baker guitar book. Bo drove me around Kingston in his little green Anglia, ran errands, went to the betting shop, picked up his kids from school, and finally dropped me off at Cross Roads so I could get the bus back to Portmore. It was an amazing afternoon. Once again, I couldn’t believe my luck. I had a guitar brother in a strange land.

A few weeks later we recorded the Wailing Souls’ “Fire House Rock” album, and I had the experience of playing with Bo Pee for the first time. It was magical from note one, and the magic remained for every note of the five years we worked together. The only way I can describe it is that when I played with Bo Pee, I always felt like I had an extra pair of arms. Two guitars in a band can sometimes butt heads, but that never happened with Bo. Whatever he played fit in perfectly with what I chose to play.

Bo had spent a lot of time in We The People as the only guitarist and had developed a way of holding the rhythm while dropping lead embellishments in the gaps. Once we started working together, he kept this approach, dialing it back a bit to give me room. At times it sounded like there were three guitars playing instead of two. Sometimes I hear our recordings and I’m not sure who played what.

Once I joined We The People six months later, I got to know Bo even better, and appreciate him more. Like all great musicians, the way Bo Pee played was an extension of who he was. There was something courtly about Bo, as if he came from an earlier, slower, and gentler time, or perhaps another dimension where people were kinder to each other and always took time to smell the roses. He was a true gentleman. I never saw him be rude to anyone; the same politeness and warmth he showed to me was there for everyone. It was hard to look at Bo Pee, no matter what kind of mood you were in, and not smile. He was very sensitive to beauty and had a deep love for nature in general and flowers in particular.

I loved his voice. Bo had a deliberate, gracious way of speaking, as if he was tasting each word before saying it. Shema McGregor told me that whenever he spoke to her, Bo Pee would always use her full name, Yashemabeth. I know why he did so; he thought it was a beautiful name, loved how it felt to say it, and couldn’t bear to shorten it and make it less beautiful. And he had a wonderful laugh, almost like a bark if he was surprised.

Bo Pee was a huge influence on me as a guitar player. I literally cannot play reggae rhythm and not think about him. I’ve borrowed from him shamelessly, as have a lot of other guitarists. But as well as I know his playing, I still marvel at how lyrical and graceful it was. Bo was a relentless student of the instrument. He was always practicing and loved nothing more than to learn something new. We spent hours talking about scales, chords, and theory.

When Bo played live, it always looked to me as though he was walking on air. One night in Kansas City, on our first tour of the States with Dennis Brown, we’d had a particularly horrible road day, and everybody was tired and angry. Dennis always featured the band on “The Drifter,” and when it came time to take his solo that night, Bo played some complex rhythms I’d never heard before, and his feet seemed to be floating above the stage as he danced. I’ve never seen or heard anything like it before or since. It was as though he was processing the entire band’s frustration and anger into beauty before our eyes. The audience went crazy, and I felt renewed, not beaten down.

Bo, being a man who loved beauty in all its manifestations, was a great lover and admirer of the opposite sex. Once we were standing outside a hotel in Ocho Rios waiting to get in the van, and a remarkably beautiful woman walked by. We both watched intently until she turned the corner. She was stunning. We looked at each other wordlessly for a moment. Then, after one of his patented pauses, Bo declaimed, as if he were a preacher addressing a packed church, “There are many flowers in the garden of Jah.” It was a perfect summation of how we felt.

And it was how Bo lived. He did his best to cultivate and care for the garden of Jah in which we all live, and to make it more beautiful, not less, through the gifts of his spirit, his love for all things, and his music. I was blessed to know Bo Pee, and to play music with him, and I use what he taught me every time I play the guitar. Thank you, my friend. You planted many, many flowers along your road.

Alton Ellis: Rediffusion and Rock Steady on Atlantic Avenue

This is an essay I wrote in 2004 after a rehearsal with Alton and the Kingston Crew, at Courtney Panton’s studio in Brooklyn. I realized that I haven’t posted it before, so I’m doing it now. As we know, Alton has passed and Kingston Crew has been sidelined in favor of New Kingston. But these are other stories for another time. This is Jamaican musical history from the source. Enjoy!

Alton Ellis is a slight, dapper Jamaican man, somewhere in his early sixties, with an oval face, intelligent eyes, and very dark skin. Unless you’re a Jamaican over the age of forty or a diehard reggae fan, you’ve probably never heard of him. He doesn’t cut an overtly dramatic figure, and he’s not someone you would immediately notice on the subway, but Alton Ellis is the original, the stamper from which all reggae singers are cut; Jamaican music’s alpha to its omega of dancehall.

Rehearsal is finished at Kingston Studio on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. It’s about 11:30 P.M. on a Thursday night, it’s wet outside, and Alton has worked the band hard. He and fellow rock steady veterans Ken Boothe and Phyllis Dillon are headlining the Mother’s Day show at Carib-New York, a Jamaican nightclub in New Rochelle and one of the important stops on the reggae circuit outside of Jamaica. Mother’s Day is an important Caribbean holiday, these singers are still very popular among older Jamaicans, and a large turnout is expected.

Although Alton played Central Park last summer for the Jamaica Tourist Board, he doesn’t get to New York much. Like many Jamaican singers who have fought their way out of the indescribable Kingston ghettoes, he now makes his home elsewhere, having lived in England for almost thirty years, and he performs primarily in Europe.

Alton has just returned from Japan, where he is also popular. Although you might expect him to be exhausted after a fifteen hour plane ride, a day doing promotion for the upcoming show on several local reggae radio programs, and a three hour rehearsal, he’s in a mood to talk, and the Kingston Crew, a group I’ve been jamming with this year, are in a mood to listen. These battle-scarred veterans of the New York reggae wars have played with just about everybody; they’re not impressed by celebrity, record deals, or world tours, and their attitude toward most artists is a mixture of polite professionalism and wariness with an undercurrent of urgency. Let’s learn the set fast. Next artist. Time is money; we’re finished; we’re out of here.

But Alton is not just any artist. As Kingston Crew keyboardist Horace James describes him, “Alton is the model for all yard (Jamaican) singers.” His first hit, “Muriel,” which he wrote and recorded in 1959 as part of the duo Alton and Eddie, was also the beginning for the legendary Jamaican record producer Coxsone Dodd, and helped establish his Studio One label. To give some sense of historical perspective, this was three years before both Jamaican independence and the development of ska, commonly considered the beginning of modern Jamaican musical history. Bob Marley was fourteen years old in 1959, Toots Hibbert of the Maytals fifteen or so.

Unlike nearly every other fifties artist, Alton continued his run of hits well into the seventies, and is still writing and recording. But his influence on reggae extends far beyond his remarkable catalog of songs, which have been covered many times by dozens of artists, and “versioned” (used as the blueprints for other reggae tracks) thousands of times more. His classic “Get Ready To Rock Steady” named a whole musical movement, changing the direction of Jamaican music from uptempo ska to the seductive slow burn of rock steady.

Alton’s love of major seventh chords and romantic melodies created the blueprint for lovers’ rock. His voice, soulful, painfully honest, and yearning, proudly Jamaican with little debt to American R&B or gospel styles, was the starting point for hundreds of reggae singers. There are singers with bigger voices and more technique, but no one has ever been more direct or sincere than Alton Ellis. His singing goes straight to the heart.

But perhaps even more than his songs or his vocal style, Alton’s persona shaped the singers who followed him. “Cry Tough”, the title of one of his best songs, captures it in two syllables: the voice of a poor, strong, man whose only valuable earthly possession, and, paradoxically, greatest vulnerability, is the depth of his ability to love. In the brutal world of the ghetto, a man trying to survive with humanity intact clings to the ideal of true love with a death grip. It is the only earthly gift he has to give, a gift limited only by the depths of his soul. Nearly every major male Jamaican singer since—Bob Marley, John Holt, Dennis Brown, Gregory Isaacs, and Freddie McGregor, to name just a few—has absorbed this stance, walking in Alton’s shadow at least part of the way down their own road to artistry.

So when Alton talks, his words carry weight, and even jaded and cynical musicians listen. And he feels like talking tonight. Maybe it’s the jet lag, or the relief of a successful rehearsal. Like most reggae artists, Alton does not make enough money to afford his own band, so he has to depend on each show’s promoter to find musicians in the area to play for him, and their competence can vary wildly. When confronted with a weak band, some artists just wince, go through the motions, take the money, and run.

Alton, a bright and sensitive man whose feelings always seem to be pulsing just under his skin, is not very good at doing this. He is particular about how his songs are played, and has very specific ideas for their arrangements. Unlike many singers, Alton is also knowledgeable and articulate enough about music to explain what he wants, and focused enough to insist on getting it. His rehearsals can be long and arduous if the musicians are careless, incompetent, or otherwise not up to his standards. Even good players who know the music have to work hard for him.

But the Kingston Crew are seasoned pros, respect Alton “to the ground,” and have done their homework. Everyone has enjoyed an evening immersed in the classics, and classics they are, properly played and beautifully sung. The set list for the show is nothing but hits, songs that shaped a whole idiom. The rehearsal has been more satisfying than many gigs, it’s still raining outside, and no one is in a hurry to leave.

So Alton, his road manager, the musicians, and a few other people with no obvious function beyond what appears to be an inalienable right to listen, congregate in the front room of Kingston Music to cool out. The space consists of this front area, which opens onto the street, a cramped rehearsal room behind it which doubles as a booth for recording, a small studio control room, and an even tinier office and bathroom way in the back.

During the day, Jah Son, the Kingston Crew’s loyal equipment man and general aide-de-camp, runs a small business selling tapes, CDs, and Rastafarian paraphenalia to passersby during the day, while the recording studio goes full blast behind him, often straight through to the next morning. But now, dimly lit by the lights still burning in the rehearsal room behind us, the posters, display cases, and counters set the stage for Alton and his stories. Somewhat surprisingly for a reggae rehearsal, the air is ganja free. None of the band indulge, and Alton, although a legendary smoker for most of his life, gave up the practice several years ago when he decided it was affecting his voice.

He turns down a proffered spliff and talks about not smoking any more, although he is a Rastafarian. “Me smoke enough fe two lifetimes! Me used to sit down with Bob Marley and Mortimer Planno (Marley’s spiritual mentor), so you know wha gwaan! No man could build a spliff (marijuana cigarette) in a de yard. Pure pipe! Nothing but chalice! Every day de dread dem come from country and drop off ganja fe Planno. Ganja, and Bible reading, and reasoning fe de whole day! Next day, same ting again. But me done with dat now. It was hard fe stop, but me do it. I give thanks every day. I want to last as long as I can in this business. Nuff of us drop out now. Dead, or naa inna it again, or sick.”

One of the band asks him about Japan. “Yes, mon. I very busy now. I just come back from dere. I haf fe give Jah thanks and praise fe de work. Is very few of us left. About fifteen of us. Desmond Dekker, Derrick Morgan, myself, Skatalites, few others. So you find that de likkle work is enough fe go round fe all of us! Give thanks!”

He tells about his tumultuous relationship with Coxsone (“a mudfish”, his road manager mutters) and how Coxsone’s great rival Duke Reid would fire his gun in the studio if he didn’t like how a session was going.

“Me vex wid Duke fe de gun bidness. ‘So Duke, suppose somebody dead?’ me ask him. ‘Wha yu haf fe seh’ bout dat?’ Duke look pon me, smile, and say, ‘Accident.'” Alton remembers when the guns first came to Jamaica through the machinations of the politicians. He remembers the shock of seeing the crates of weapons when they came to Matches Lane in the sixties, and the rude boys’ excitement as they cracked them open, beginning the epidemic of violence which has plagued the country ever since, even spreading with the drug posses throughout the world.

“Gun ting gone on from ever since. Dem wicked politics mon bring dem come, and de guns run dem. Guns run Jamaica now, not politics.” Alton talks about how he sang for so long for so little, before any kind of money was in reggae, before anyone in Jamaica ever suspected the world beyond its 1440 square miles might have any interest in it. Speaking of money, Alton talks about how much the musicians who played on his records—Roland Alphanso, Jackie Jackson, Lloyd Brevett, Aubrey Adams, Carl Malcolm, Lynn Taitt, and the others—contributed to his music, how much it meant to him, and how little money and credit they got.

“Dem man deh get no mention. Nuttin’. Not even dem name pon de jacket. I never get much neither, but I get me picture deh pon de front cover, and I get me name.” He talks about leaving the music business for a while after “Muriel” didn’t make the money he expected, and how his old friend, the late Joe Higgs, inspired him to return.

“Yu stop sing? Alton, me naa stop sing fe nuttin’! Oonu cyaan stop sing!” And then he talks about Rediffusion. He talks about what it was like to be poor, and listening to the Rediffusion from his neighbor’s yard.

“What was Rediffusion?” someone asks. Alton explains: Rediffusion was a radio in a plain wooden box, which could not be bought, only rented, for twelve shillings a month. It had only one station (Rediffusion, of course), and only one knob, which turned the radio on and off and controlled the volume.

“Did you have one?”

Alton laughs. “Twelve shillings was ’nuff money den! Me father could never in life have found twelve shillings a month fe Rediffusion. I used to stay so—” and he arches his whole body and cups an ear to demonstrate. For a moment he is again a teenager in a tenement yard in Kingston, his whole being focused on absorbing the music coming from next door. Alton, like many roots Jamaicans, has real acting skills. You can almost see the zinc fence through which he is listening to the music.

“Was it a big thrill the first time you heard yourself on the radio?” The Kingston Crew is asking Alton questions with unmistakable reverence, as if they were interviewers instead of musicians. This is a part of their history they have never heard. They really want to know.

Alton pauses for a moment before replying, and his answer is surprising.

“Not the biggest. The biggest thrill for me was hearing Higgs and Wilson on the radio, because they had a record before me and they were my friends.”

“Really?”

“Yeah, mon. I never forget the feeling. Never.” He folds his arms, raises his eyes to the ceiling, takes a breath, and speaks as if praying. “I said to myself, a my FRIEND dat. I was so proud. I was so proud that my friend was on the radio and that I knew him.”

The room is silent. All of a sudden I am aware of the sounds of traffic on Atlantic Avenue driving through the rain. It dawns on me what a journey this man has taken. I have lived in Kingston, I have worked in its ghetto studios, I have played on the sessions, been to the dances, performed with the artists and musicians for decades. I have a part in the music’s story myself. But this is the first time I have really understood what limits this man has transcended, the distance he has traveled from the expectations he grew up with.

It seems to strike Alton too. “We come a far way. We come such a far way.” He speaks quietly. “We never dreamed the music would reach so far. None of us. Coxsone, Duke, the Skatalites, meself. None of us imagined. Give thanks again.”

“Was your father proud when he heard you on the radio?” A big smile creases Alton’s face.

“Him? Every morning him out in de yard before him gone a work. Like so.” Alton puts his hands on his hips and turns his head to one side as if listening next door, and for a brief moment he becomes the older Ellis. He looks very different from when he was imitating himself as a youngster. His whole affect changes.

You can see the father’s pride in his son, his vulnerability, his bafflement at the workings of the modern world. After an honest life of hard labor and no expectations beyond payday, church, and Sunday rice and peas, suddenly, with no warning, you hear your son’s voice booming across the yard every day, coming out of a luxury item next door you yourself can’t afford. It is a triumph for the family, the yard, the whole neighborhood. It is an unimaginable success, an undreamed of achievement, a moment of great joy and pride, an unexpected payoff for a lifetime of struggle, but where, pray tell, does it fit in the scheme of things? The world is changing beneath his feet.

Then Alton laughs, snaps out of character, and the vision is gone. “Him dying fe Rediffusion play ‘Muriel’ before him lef a morning. Him never check fe it before, but him love Rediffusion from dem times on.” Now he winds down a little, as if the memory of his father was what he was trying to access. Instruments are packed up; phone numbers are exchanged; and Alton inquires about the time of tomorrow’s rehearsal with Phyllis and Ken. There are three more numbers he thinks he might want to sing. Will the band be able to find time for him?

Yes, of course, Courtney, the bandleader, assures him. If he comes about ten, we will still be there, and the other artists should be finished by then. Alton puts on his dark green and yellow windbreaker, then carefully adjusts his pork pie hat. It suddenly dawns on me that Alton is not just a musical influence. In addition to shaping an idiom, he’s also the guy all the younger ska bands like the Specials and The Mighty Mighty Bosstones are trying to dress like.

His road manager gathers up her notebook and purse and they head down Atlantic Avenue, going toward one more show, one more strange band, and one more night singing the old songs one more time. But he doesn’t look tired or bored; not at all. As he says the music has, indeed, come a far way, and Alton is by no means finished traveling along with it.